During the collection and production of raw materials,
nature is to be disturbed as little as possible. Particular care to protect
endangered species is mandated. Genetic manipulation and modification are
rejected. The transformation of raw materials into cosmetics is to be
accomplished with care and with few chemical processes. Renewable and
biodegradable materials are preferred because their ecological impact is
substantially lower, especially when they come from controlled biological
sources or other responsible means using natural resources. With natural
ingredients, one deals with substances that have been used and studied for
ages, so there is a minimal toxicity potential. Natural products most easily
fulfill the requirement of accountability and socially responsible production.
The choice of technical production methods is limited. Technical methods cannot
be fully eliminated especially when the user's expectations for purity and
performance cannot be met by raw materials in their natural state. Environmentally-friendly
production methods, renewable and biodegradable materials and minimal use of
packaging are expected.
The following guidelines define the concept of natural
cosmetics in a sensible and clear manner, with the consumer's expectations of
safe and ecologically sound products in mind.
1. Raw materials
obtained from plants
As far as possible, raw materials obtained from plants
should be used from:
- controlled biological cultivation, taking quality and
availability into account, or
- controlled biological wild collections
2. Animal
Protection
- No animal testing may be performed or commissioned when
end products are manufactured, developed or tested.
- Raw materials that were not available on the market
before 01.01.1998 may only be used if they have not been tested on animals.
This does not include animal testing performed by third parties who neither
were ordered/prompted by the ordering party to do so nor are associated to the
ordering party by company law or by contract.
- It is prohibited to use raw materials obtained from
dead vertebrates (e.g. spermaceti, terrapin oil, mink oil, marmot fat, animal
fats, animal collagen or living cells).
3. Raw materials
obtained from minerals
The use of inorganic salts and raw materials obtained
from minerals is generally permitted, except for those listed in point 5.
4. Raw materials
with restricted use
For the production of natural cosmetics, it is
permissible to use components which are extracted through hydrolysis,
hydrogenation, esterification, transesterification or other crackings and
condensations from the following natural materials:
- fats, oils and waxes
- lecithins
- lanolin
- monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides
- proteins and lipoproteins
The actual raw material use is regulated by the positive
list for development and production of certified natural cosmetics.
5. Deliberate
rejection of
- organic-synthetic dyes
- synthetic fragrances
- ethoxylated raw materials
- silicones
- paraffin and other petroleum products
The criterion which determines which aromatic substances
are permitted is mainly ISO 9235.
6. Preservation
To ensure that products are microbiologically safe,
certain nature-identical preservatives are allowed in addition to natural
preservatives. These are:
- benzoic acid, its salts and ethylester
- salicylic acid and its salts
- sorbic acid and its salts
- benzyl alcohol
When these preservatives are used, products must be
labelled
“preserved with ... [name of preservative]”
7. No radioactive
radiation
It is forbidden to disinfect organic raw materials and
completed cosmetic products using radioactive radiation.
8. Certified
Natural Cosmetics
A neutral control body checks that the above criteria are
complied with. The association's label is used to indicate that the criteria
have been complied with.
Further goals
Raw material requirements
- traceable production using clear processes
- education of consumers
Disapproval of
genetic engineering
Clear opposition to raw materials extracted from
genetically modified plants or animals. As genetic engineering is a
controversial issue in agriculture and is not justified ecologically,
biological cultivation is supported and genetic engineering is actively
rejected.
Ecological
compatibility
- only natural sources of raw materials, if possible
certified by the EG-Bio-VO (EG regulation of ecological cultivation)
- environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes
- optimal degradability of raw materials and finished
products
- economical, environmentally-friendly and recyclable
packaging
- maintenance of natural life principles
Social
compatibility
- raw materials from fair trading and Third World
projects
- use and disposal
- cooperation
